Ears stuffed with cotton against the noise of the propellers just outside the cabin. Passengers cramped into tiny seats, craning the neck to see the either side of the plane as we make our way to Lukla. A deep breath as we fall out of the sky to land on a small strip of land situated on the side of a mountain.
Noisy hustle to collect gear and begin the long awaited trek. A short break for a pot of tea and to take in the moment of arriving in this place.
A train of yaks are shortly encountered outside the airport. This will be an oft repeated experience as we make our way up the valley. A gathering of trekkers and guides at the first check point to obtain the trekking permit. Many languages can be heard, some not easily recognized.
A long trek down and the first suspension bridge is crossed. Legs wobble across this wobbly structure while the eye looks straight down to the river below. “Don’t look down” may have crossed the mind.
A short break at the outside of Phakding to have lunch at a German Backerei. A short walk to our destination for the night at Zamfute at the welcoming Kongde Peak Guest House. Respite of a long nap and then a nice supper of momos and a pot of tea. A nice visit with a local Sherpa to learn about the region.
A long sleep allowed for recovery from the days of travel. A breakfast of eggs and toast and a pot of tea readied us for the long climb to Namche Bazar. The trail was busy with hundreds of hikers, guides and porters. Porters carrying remarkable loads strapped to their head. Each carries a resting stick to place beneath the load when they need a rest.
Mixed feelings of the benefit to the economy of this region against the toll the trekkers take on the beautiful and sacred place. Trash is observed along the trails, and everything that is consumed is brought in on the back of a person, yak or mule.
The day is warm and sweat readily appears as we toil upwards. We have a long break to wait for numerous yak trains and mule trains to cross a suspension bridge. The animals have no sense of their width and it rests with the trekker to stay clear. Several trekkers attempted to pass the yak train, only to quickly retreat as it became apparent they would get squished.
The Bearded One is a wonder of the people. Many people stop and laugh heartily, one even grabbed his beard and gave it a tug.
”Namaste “ is said in passing hundreds of time a day. There is almost a sing song quality to the heartfelt response of Namaste.
Another short stop to purchase our Sagarmatha National Park pass. Chatter among trekkers about the difficult climb and the long stretch yet before us. A moment of awe to take in the experience of really being here in this place. Fills the heart with joy and brings a tear to the eye to share this experience with the One I Love.
A high suspension bridge is crossed, wind blowing and bridge swaying, with prayer flags waving in the wind. The mountains behind play peek a boo with the clouds, sometimes revealing themselves and other times well hidden.
A long incline brings us to the last check point of they day. 100 meters left to climb to finally arrive at our destination. Walking through the cluttered streets of Namche is overwhelming to the senses. Dogs, yaks, cow, people and souvenirs jam every street.
We arrive to find a familiar face of the Sherpa we met the evening before. He lead us to the Shangi-La Lodge where we were lead to a cozy room. Snow had begun to fall and the warmth of the day had slipped away. The heavy blankets were a welcome find in our room.
The kitchen is where everyone gathers in the evening to warm by the fire and find a hot meal and pot of tea. We met and visited with a guide from Kathmandu. As the fire burns low, the cold begins to creep in, signaling the end of the evening and the retreat to the warmth our of sleeping bags. The house cat decided to join us and found a warm spot nestled against my neck.
Saturday dawned cold and cloudy, leaving doubts that our climb to the village of Khumjung and the Everest view would allow us our first view of Everest.
Breakfast allowed for conversation with travelers from around the world, all excited to be in this sacred place.
The morning allowed for one view of Khumbila, a sacred mountain for the Sherpas. It is worshipped as the abode of the protector of the Khumbu region.
The long, steep climb to the Sherpa village above Namche aids in acclimatization. A mix of trekkers and porters filled the path. Arrival in the village is announced by a row of prayer wheels and women out doing their morning meditation. A visit around the village gave a sense of day to day life. People working in their fields, laundry hanging out to dry, kids playing soccer and joyfully laughing at The Bearded One’s beard.
A final push to the Everest view reveals mountains tucked tightly in the clouds. One last look down the valley and we begin our decent back to Namche. We stop to observe workers chiseling rock by hand that will be used to build buildings in process.
we arrive back to our te house by early afternoon, in time for a pot of Jasmine tea. The Bearded One is developing a taste for tea! The afternoon ends with the gentle falling of snow.
It is difficult to capture every experience had along the way. This trip is full of experiences that will last a lifetime. I can only say get out and find your Everest and be open to the experiences it will bring.
WanderJill
Leave a Reply