Lumde to Thame Down the Renjo Khola Valley 4/16/18

Lumde Mountains

Lumde to Thame
Down the Renjo Khola Valley 4/16/18

Today's wander takes us from Lumde to Thame. We follow the Bhote Kosi glacial river, crisscrossing as we go. As we loose elevation, the landscape transitions from grey and brown to green trees and wild flowers in bloom. Thame offers a quaint Lodge to call home for a much needed rest.

Morning dawns cold and bright. I awake feeling better than the previous day. Breakfast of a boiled egg and plain rice settles the gut and prepares us for today's walk. Head stuffed, a wicked cough and a runny nose has me focused on getting down to a lower elevation where we can find warmth and a day of rest. At breakfast we meet an Aussie who is here with her husband, with an aggressive climbing agenda. We listen to their adventures and preparation for this big climb, marking her husband's 60th year of walking this earth.

After visiting and finishing our tea, we excuse ourselves. We slowly pack our packs as I look around and observe the tiny room. Wood slats line the floor, missing a slat or two,  giving us a view of the dirt beneath. Rough, thin plywood form the walls, tarps hang to cover gaps. Two small but functional cots take up most of the room. A water closet is squeezed into a corner and was a godsend for the previous night. We take one last look and head out to the court yard.

Our packs shouldered, we stop for a short visit with climbers taking in the morning sun. While it is cold, the sun is lovely and offers a bit of warmth. Mountains rise sharply around us, intense blue skies fill with towering clouds, face raised toward the sun to soak in the warmth. We wish success to the climbers and set off down the valley.

Lumde to Thame towering mountains

We follow and crisscross the bustling Bhote Kosi river. Prayer flags gently blowing in the wind mark the river crossings, as if to wish the traveler luck in their crossing.   The river keeps us company with it's song of rushing water. Turquoise colored glacial water rushes over polished boulders set against a blue sky filled with mountains and clouds that invite moments of pause to take in the beauty.

Lumde to Thame Glacial river bustling down the valley

Lumde to Thame Glacier carved valley surrounded by mountains

Continuing down valley is a pleasant walk. Occasional hills require some effort, increasing my heart rate and triggering fits of coughing. I am aware that my body is tired and in need of a long rest. We pass through several tiny villages of 2-3 houses.

Lumde to Thame Crumpled sign

Along the mountainside are houses with rock fenced fields that have not yet been tilled or planted.

Lumde to Thame Stone house and fields

These are likely the summer home for people lower in the valley. Aged stone homes with missing mortar and slabs of rock covering the roof dot the landscape as we move down the valley. A desire to see the inside and experience staying a night inside such a building. Perhaps another adventure.

Lumde to Thame Aged Stone House

In a couple of short hours we arrive in the lovely village of Thame Teng, marked by a Stupa, Prayer Wheel and Flags.

Lumde to Thame Stupa entering Thame Teng

We mistakenly believe we are in Thame, which is over a high moraine and further down the valley. We approach a Sherpa and ask for his recommendation for lodging in Thame. He smiles, and says we are not in Thame, but once we get there we should stay in the The Valley View Lodge. As we pass through the village we stop and visit with some trekkers we had met the previous day on Kongma La Pass. They are enjoying a pot of tea and the sunshine and will go all the way to Namche today.

We continue through the village and come upon a huge Stupa in the process of being built. It is the largest Stupa we have encountered in the Khumbu region. Rows of mani stones line the path, marking the arrival in a village that is continuously occupied. Villages at higher elevation that are not inhabited year around do not have a Stupa or mani stones. This is also the first time in weeks that we have seen a Prayer Wheel - another indication that we are back in civilization, as defined in the Khumbu region.

As we travel down, the valley transitions from grey glacial moraine, absent of color, to welcome patches of green and flecks of purple, yellow and white. We even see a green tree and a flower in bloom, adding much missed color to the landscape! It has been at least a week since we have seen a tree. We enjoy the vegetation interspersed with prayer flags, stone ringed fields and colorful houses.

Lumde to Thame First flower in bloom

Lumde to Thame Lovely green tree

Another 30 minutes of walking and we arrive in Thame. We find the recommended Lodge and meet a cheerful hostess who leads us upstairs to a clean room filled with the afternoon sun.  A warm afternoon and the promise of a hot shower coax us out of our filthy layers.  It has been weeks since our last shower.   Barring our skin to the sun for the first time in weeks reminds how much I have missed the warm sensation of sun on my skin.  The warmth on our skin tempts us to take a long sun bath, but alas, a real hot water shower awaits.

After a hot shower we put on our cleanest layers and head for the kitchen.  A hot pot of tea and some lunch set us up to take a long nap in the warmth of the afternoon.
This hamlet offers us rest and recharging for our weary bodies. My body, pushed to it's limit, is in need of rest to recover from the strenuous trek thus far. I sleep for the better part of the day. Rain tapping on the window and metal roof gently wakes me.   It is late afternoon and the hostess has sent a pot of tea and some snacks to replenish us.

Cold begins to creep in, urging us to seek the warmth of the fire in the kitchen. The room is busy with trekkers, Sherpas and Porters.  Kitchen staff are bustling about, trying to keep up with the orders for tea and food.  The Bearded One’s beard attracts attention from old and young alike. The young grand daughter of the hostess grabs the beard and tugs, joyfully giggling and saying “more” to get him to wiggle his mustache. His Beard has made us many acquaintances, and melted the language barrier all along our trek.

We enjoy the small kitchen and conversation with other trekkers.  Some are just beginning their trek, and others, like us are in the final days of their adventure.  A cake appears in celebration of a trekkers' birthday.   We enjoy a slice of cake and marvel at having cake in this remote village. We take in the intricate room, filled with relics telling the story of the people who live here. One's mind can almost imagine that we are in a Bavarian hut, with walls of polished wood, shelves of people pictured in traditional dress, and pots and implements made of metal and wood. A cozy ambience encourages a long sit to observe all the details.

We turn in for an early night, hungry for more rest to replenish the body.

WanderJill