Gokyo Lake to Renjo La – the final Pass

GGokyo Lake

Gokyo Lake to Renjo La Pass

A restless night - an unsettled gut.  Coughing, sneezing, sensation of suffocating. The alarm rings at 5 am and the fight to meet the cold morning begins. Cold air stings the lungs on the inhale and lingers in the air post exhale. A quick breakfast and tea is had and we shoulder our heavy packs.
Today we leave the high mountain enclave of Gokyo Lakes and head for the third and final of our high passes, Renjo La at an elevation of 5340 meters (17,300 feet).

Today's hike marks the completion of our high elevation trekking.  Renjo La Pass transitions from the high elevation environment to the gently sloping Renjo Khola Valley that leads back down to Namche.

Our path starts at the base of Gokyo Ri and winds around the partially frozen lake to the start of the climb.

Gokyo Lake viewed from trail

A steep, loose path ascends the first 400 meters in haste. Halfway up the ascent my unsettled guts have an urgent need to release. Finding a spot on the slope that will support an unshouldered pack becomes a chore. Once relieved we continue our steep ascent. Lungs burning, morning sun scorching, wind blowing off the cold ice. Clouds begin to build in the valley, signaling the weather to come.

Last views of Gokyo Lake with clouds building in the valley

Several more stops along the way to relieve my guts and a slow slog to the top. The Bearded One kindly relieves my pack of a few kilos to make my trek a little easier. Every step requires intense concentration and the will to get to the top. The intensity of the effort is broken by awe inspiring views.  A moment of joy taking in the vast expanse of peaks, skies and clouds make the effort worth every step.

Breathtaking expansive peaks

A final push and we arrive at the top of the pass.  A small group of trekkers are huddled and celebrating at the cold, snowy top. The wind has blown clouds and ominous skies up the valley below. A trekker offers to take a picture of us.  Tears are hidden behind dark glasses and a smile is conjured for the picture.

A short break and we begin the knee crushing decent - dropping 1000 meters in a few short kilometers (over 3,500 feet in a few miles).

Renjo La Pass summit

Head swimming from plugged sinuses, gut still being difficult, the only focus is getting down in elevation to the next village. We quickly arrive at the first frozen lake and continue moving forward as the skies darken and hard pellets of snow begin to sting the face.

Renjo Khola Valley from Renjo La Pass

As we reach the second set of lakes,  my guts unload before I can stop to relieve myself. Tears of exhaustion and desperation. The Bearded One calmly and gently helps me out of my layers, leaving my bare skin shivering against the elements. Layers are donned and we continue our march down.
Three hours of steady walking bring us to the tiny village of Lumde.  As we approach a lodge, the lady of the house sees us coming and immediately opens the door to a room for us and says "tired".  We don't even ask how much the room is, we just enter and drop our packs.

Luckily, the room has a tiny water closet, which saves me from having to race out into the cold night to relieve myself. The Bearded One helps me into some dry layers and tucks me into both our sleeping bags and piles two blankets on top. He makes a bottle of hot water to warm my body, and holds me while I shake with exhaustion and dehydration.

For the next several hours I drift between fitful sleep and urgent runs to the water closet, barely able to focus on anything around me.
In the early morning my guts relent and I am able to find some restful sleep. The Bearded One squeezed himself between me and the cold wall and held me for the night.

WanderJill