6:00 am alarm rings and we slowly get out of bed to prepare for our day hike to Ama Dablam base camp. We will gain 790 meters (2600 feet) of elevation, which will aid in our acclimatization as we continue slowly moving up the valley. Our pace so far has been adequate as neither of us has experienced any altitude sickness. Daily, trekkers are picked up by helicopter due to altitude sickness. Warnings are posted in every tea house that explain the symptoms of altitude sickness, High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE), and High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) and what to do about it. We have planned our trip to minimize the risk of altitude sickness by increasing elevation gradually and doing day hikes that push us in elevation, but then allow us to return to a lower elevation to sleep and acclimate to a higher elevation.
Breakfast of eggs, toast and tea is had in a cold kitchen. We pack our day packs, sterilize enough water for the day and head out to Ama Dablam base camp. We quickly come to a river crossing strewn with prayer flags gently floating on the wind. The view down valley is picturesque with snowy mountains in the distance, blue skies, river tumbling down stream, and prayer flags framing the view. A moment to enjoy the view before we continue on our climb.
We climb onto a plateau and find a farm house made of stone and fields freshly sown. A young man collects yak dung in a basket and yaks graze about. The Bearded One takes the chance to fly his drone, which he has carried on his back for several days. A bit of cursing in German is overheard and an offer of help, which is declined. His batteries do not like the cold! The well travelled drone will not fly and will not give us the much anticipated video footage of this trip of a life time.
The Bearded One comes to terms with his grand scheme not working and packs his drown back in his backpack. We continue our uphill trek with the path cutting through shrub brown from the winter cold. At points there are many paths crisscrossing each other. The map is consulted and we carry on our way. The path becomes sandy, stealing the momentum from every step.
A two hours walk leads us to a place where the mountains surge out of the ground, towering above us. It simply takes our breath away. The astounding beauty is hard to believe. Mountains covered in snow, ridges connecting mountains, deep couloirs, spires jutting out, sun beating down and clouds building around the mountains. The eye and camera are drawn to the details and expansiveness of this landscape. The camera takes the picture, but is far from capturing what the eye sees and what the soul experiences.
Being in this place at this moment, with the one I love is almost more than I can bear. Tears stream from behind the sunglasses, a long pause to allow the experience wash over me and saturate every sense. The body trembles in the presence of these mountains.
A couple of climbers happen by and move us on from this moment. They are Australians and hope to grab the peak of Ama Dablam in the next few days. They point out the route they will take and their excitement is contagious. Alas, we will not climb any 6,000 meter (20,000 feet) peaks on this trek. That will have to be another time.
We continue on our way and shortly arrive at base camp. A few tents are standing and a Sherpa is doing his laundry in ice cold glacier water. A gentle wind blows across the flat, dry landscape. It is cold, but we take our time to sit down and enjoy the face of Ama Dablam. She is a beautiful mountain. Some say she is the most beautiful mountain in the Khumbu region. Sun and clouds dance around her summit inviting the eye to explore her many features.
Another trekker from Denmark arrives and chats with us briefly. She has been on this trek several times, and keeps returning as if it refills her soul. We take our leave and head back to Pangboche. We stop at the bakery for tea and a pastry and again find ourselves in the company of the Aussie who is going to climb Ama Dablam. We enjoy our pastry and conversation and he goes on his way back to base camp.
We return to our room and find a warm ray of sunshine coming through our window. We took advantage of the warmth and heated water for a sponge bath. Wiping the sweat and dirt accumulated over the last 5 days was heavenly. A full belly, a (relatively) clean body, a warm room and our eyes became heavy. An afternoon cuddle was enjoyed.
The 5:00 fire was burning in the kitchen so we went down to visit and have supper. The room was full of climbers, trekkers, porters and Sherpas. One group of climbers were from Iran. They were older gentlemen who had met in their younger days at University. They have been climbing together since the days of their youth and had many stories to tell.
The Bearded One made his peace with his drone and asked a porter if he would take it back to Namche where we could pick it up on our way back. The porter charged him 1,000 NPR (about $10 USD). Seemed like a fair deal to us and would relieve The Bearded One of several pounds. We ordered our breakfast for 7:00 the next morning and headed to bed.
Tea houses have a small book for each room where your tab for your stay is kept. You write down your order for the meal you want and what time you will be there to eat. Tea houses also sell things like toilet paper, cookies and chocolate. Anything you request gets recorded in the book. At the end of your stay, the head of the house calculates your tab. In general, we spent about 4,000 NPR a night (includes room, dinner, tea, and breakfast and chocolate). The higher in elevation you go, the more expensive it becomes.